White, bold, ancient, very ancient walls, that encounters history from the XII century when the architecture was born around a settlement of the Byzantine monks, a location for defence for Malta’s Knights in the fifteenth century, and a “masseria” from the eighteenth century as it is today. Once you arrive, take a moment and stop in the courtyard and observe everything around you. You’ll see how the pastel colours of the Borgo, always bright and full of life, will narrate the love that the historical Amati family has been developing for this place since the XVIII century, from generation to generation.

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In the cave church at the rear of Borgo San Marco (owned by Dr. Alessandro Amati and recently restored by Mrs Nori Meo Evoli) important and beautiful frescos, never seen before, were discovered. The images of the Saints and medieval writings have been hidden for years, perhaps centuries, underneath a whitewash and plaster blanket.

The information that our recent discovery has uncovered are extremely interesting. A painted epigraph, recently discovered by academics, has reappeared to the side of Christ Pantocrator thrilled in the apse of the crypt, who blesses by raising an arm, in the middle of the Saints Medici Cosma and Damiano (after whom, the little carved temple was named after). On the right of Jesus on the throne, the text states: “MEME TO D(OMI)NE / FAMULA TUA/ DESPINA” (i.e. “Remember, Almighty God, your truly devoted Despina”). Therefore, the person who dedicated and purchased the complex was a woman named Despina, who was wealthy enought to commission an extraordinary set of painted frescos (XII- XII cent.).
A “female purchaser” was unusual at the time and therefore points out the high economic power which belongs to this woman: something very unusual due to the role of the male as the primary authority figure, that was central to that kind of social organization (late middle Ages).
On the southern wall of the cave church of San Marco, other images were discovered (even if the lower part has been lost): there is a bearded saint Bishop with a crosier and a prelate headcloth and a female figure (perhaps coming from the East) with a gold diadem on her head and wrapped in a drapery.
You can clearly see the letters “NO” and “PE”: it is therefore supposed that they might be Saint Norbert (a saint coming from middle-northern Europe) and Saint Pelagia (coming from the middle east). If this is the case, once again the nearby territory preserved traces of an Eastern and Western Christianity mixed together, as the Christian faith was united into the same Creed, in the same holy temple. There is still more…

SO CLOSE YET SO FAR

In the same cave church, another text has been found: it’s a Greek name, Στέφανος, (STEFANOS) which clearly hints at Saint Stephen ‘s cult. The rest of the fresco (placed to Saint Norbert’s left) has now re-emerged: the protomartyr of Christianity is kneeling while he’s stoned to death by a number of people, who are depicted while throwing stones at him.
Due to the conditions of the fresco, the condition is not great, but Saint Stephen’s figure is almost clear.
Finally, this last Saint is strictly linked to the other two figures of Saints (the Saints Doctors, Cosmo and Damian) because he had a reputation as a healer of the sick too and is mentioned in many intercessory prayers in Byzantium.

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In Puglia, masserias are like maidens in white dresses, singing songs of love for the Sun. The historical centers in Fasano and surrounding areas are like sugar nuggets filled with the sweetness of Barocco.

Come to a place where colors are like ingredients to create with, like a good bread where the sunshine is the leavening that makes everything build, grow and glow.

Come to a place where monumental olive trees endured centuries as inspiration to kings and popes.

Come to a place where the sky is defied by the bold Romanesque-Puglian cathedrals, instead where deep in the limestone the darkness calls out thousands of brilliant, ancient frescoes of the extraordinary Medieval stone.

Puglia carries the magic of the stone, the wind, the sea, and the salt in the air.

These are the invisible roads to seek out, to smell, because following these paths the magic, the surprise, the awe, will take form, becoming substance for the eyes and poetry to the rest of the senses.

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